January 2008


Length: Approx 23km
Time:
2 Days
Elevation Gain: 900m total (excluding sidetrip)
Max Elevation:
2330m, (2500m side trip up Saddleback Mt)
Rating: 7/10, some tedious spots though it was overcast and cloudy
Done: End of October 2007
Book: Classic Hikes in the Canadian Rockies, Graeme Pole
Map: NTS, 82 N/8
Route: From Lake Louise Chateau over Saddleback Pass, into Paradise Valley, up Paradise Valley via river bottom (lower trail), return via Lake Annette and Paradise Valley Junction.

The journey to Paradise ValleyTowards the end of October 2007, UAOC (University of Alberta Outdoors Club) headed to the Lake Louise area of Banff National Park for a late-season two-day backpacking trip. The target: Paradise Valley.

Friday night we left Edmonton with 8 people in two cars, heading for an overnight stay at Saskatchewan Crossing. It was actually their last weekend of the season as they close for the winter period. Stopping in the little an totally unfamous town of Bentley on the way, we managed to get a 12 pack of Canadian for $10, it having been priced incorrectly. The cashier didn’t notice. We were then well equipped for an evening of poker in the hotel, won in style by a poker newbie (that would be me).

Day 1 - Saturday 11km

We finished off the drive along the Icefields Parkway and registered at the Park Office in Lake Louise. Then, after a quick drive to the trailhead at Lake Louise Chateau, we were ready to get going (you can start from Morraine Lake in summer, but the Morraine Lake Top of Saddleback Mountain, road is closed to cars in autumn, winter and spring). Having assessed snow conditions, we decided to leave the snowshoes at the car…a good choice seeing as we barely had to hike through any snow at all! Yet at the same elevation on the Skyline a few weeks before, we had several feet.

We were heading into Paradise Valley via Saddleback Pass, so we had a 3km of uphill to start off with. In fact, this turned out to be a nice, steady, easy to walk gradient and the time flew by. Before we knew it, we were up above the treeline under the flanks of Mt Fairview gazing out of the Chateau (what an eyesore, I think it should be torn down!!). We stopped for lunch here, and discussed the merits of a sidetrip to the top of Saddleback Mountain which looked a nice easy scramble. Eventually we decided to do it, which I quickly regretted after a few mins of stumbling over slippy, snowy boulders with ankle breaking gaps, down one of which I dropped a Mars Bar. Those who know me won’t be surprised to find out I spent 5mins and a great deal of pain to finally get it back.

Top of Saddleback Mountain, The sidetrip redeemed itself higher up though, where the going got easier and some stunning views of the surrounding peaks (including the attractive and instantly recognisable Mt Temple) and Paradise Valley itself opened up. The summit also had views down the Bow Valley, giving you a real sense of the scale of the mountains, without taking too much exertion. It was probably around 20mins to get to the summit from the pass. And worth it.

Heading down again we picked up our packs and started a steep, knee-jarring descent into Paradise Valley. It seemed like we were dropping a lot more than we gained (just an illusion). Leaving the stunning mountain vistas and tremendous rock-faces behind we dropped into the trees, and headed up Paradise Valley. Opting to take the now dis-used lower trail that keeps by the river (it was closed and the trail moved higher up to avoid bear-human conflicts).Top This gave us a couple of interesting river fords, but saved us taking the same trail on the return trip. I have to say I was a little disappointed with Paradise Valley, I think it was possibly an unflattering time of year for it being after the amazing larches, and before the winter snow. The trail has some limited views of Mt Temple as it slowly climbs through the trees. It was cloudy by this point too.

The valley redeemed itself somewhat with the pretty area that is Giant Steps. This collection of flat, square rocks forms some interesting waterfalls and is situated in a nice open area with goods views down the valley and up to the surrounding peaks. It is also handily close to the Paradise Valley campground. We chilled out (literally, the temperature was dropping fast) for a long, long time lying on the flat rocks. It would be gorgeous to sunbathe here on a summers Giant Steps, Paradise Valleyday (though I can imagine the crowds, we had the place to ourselves).

Dinner included a fantastic bowl of melted chocolate orange to share. Mostly consumed by me.

Day 2 - Sunday 12km

After a rather lonely night in my bivi-bag (I know, it’s a bivi-bag, it’s meant to be lonely, but still, there was no need for everyone else to camp out of sight and out of ear-shot from me!) we set off for a lesiurely day two. This time heading down the current (and kind of new) trail that runs higher up the slopes of Temple, well away from the river and the preferred bear habitat. This route would take us out past Lake Annette. Unfortunately, the weather came in a little bit, and most of the views were obscured by cloud. The hike out was pleasant as far as Lake Annette, and we had some fun times playing on frozen streams on the way (see video). The trail is through scattered trees with some good views of Paradise Valley at times, and some awe-inspiring close-ups of the dramatic gullies of Mt Temple. Lake Annette itself does seem to be in a gorgeous location, though we couldn’t see much. However, the rest of the hike from there onwards to the car at Lake Louise got pretty tedious.

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As always I’ve been delayed with my trip report, and this particular hike took place a 2 months (and more) ago on a Saturday at the beginning of November. It was another UAOC trip (University of Alberta Outdoors Club) that is really a weekend of debauchery and drinking in the Nordegg Youth Hostel, titled Cabin Fever. Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, NordeggWith a wee bit of hiking. 40+ students take over the hostel for the weekend, and have two very fun nights as a group and then split into smaller groups for day-time activities…normally groups are determined by hangover strength.

I was in the least hungover group…who following an idea from Brett had decided to have an off-trail hike/scramble (though no hands are actually needed) to the start of the Mt Stelfox ridge. This trail starts from the parking lot immediately to the East of the Cline River on Highway 11 (by Abraham Lake, as always). The trail head is the southern/western end of the Stelfox Loop.

Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, NordeggYou go along the very obvious (and boring) flat-ish trail for around 3km. The point you’re looking for is just after a long incline that initially gives you views of the gorge to your left, and then re-enters some trees. It’s just before a long descent, and there is a faint trail heading off through the trees to your right.

This faint hiker’s path takes a direct line up the slope towards the top of the ridge. Don’t worry if you lose it, just follow the slope up and pick a path through the trees. Take care not to drift too far right which will become cliffs higher up.

The way is relatively tedious…although at the time when we did it there was increasing amounts of snow as we got higher up. This provided some nice Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordeggwalking conditions (if a bit tiring with all the slipping, it’s a fairly steep slope) and our first wintery conditions of the 2007/08 season. Views up the Coral Creek and Cline river valley’s open behind as you gain height.

Eventually (an hour of ascent since the main path?) you break onto some level ground where you can bear right to follow the obvious and stunning cliff top to stupendous views over the valley below and Lake Abraham itself. This viewgasm (made up word, one of my favourites) provided the perfect lunch stop for us, where a bitterly cold wind strained at our goretex and persuaded most of the group to head back down again Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordeggshortly. Mark, Julia and I (the usual suspects) were having none of it, and scampered to the main crest of the ridge (though not the summit of Stelfox, which remains a lot further along the ridge past some technical scrambling). We were soon in knee deep snow and a wintery blizzard blew in providing some exciting walking conditions and obliterating the view. From the first cliff view point to the ridge crest is probably just another 20mins more. Exhilarated, our descent back the way we came to the valley bottom and the main trail was quick and fraught with amusing slips in the snow. We caught up with the others not far along the trail where we returned to the trail.

Fun day! Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordegg

Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordegg

Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordegg

Mt Stelfox hike and scramble, Nordegg

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