Outdoor Video Magazine

Length: 44km
Time: 3 days
Elevation gain: 1380m
Difficulty: Moderate (in good conditions, harder in snow!!)
Rating: 9/10

So the Thanksgiving weekend is another great oppurtunity to escape to the mountains for 3 days, if only to avoid the turkey. This time, I was on a University of Alberta Outdoors Club trip to the Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park. After much confusion and careful organising by VP of the club, Ian Curran, 10 people remained on the trip. It was very important that we knew the capabilities and preparedness of the people we had on this trip, as we knew tackling the Skyline in October would be quite the undertaking, given the recent snowfall. The decision was made that all group members should carry snowshoes.

I think this is a GREAT time of year to do the normally busy and over-used Skyline trail. We didn’t expect to see anyone else on the trail, and we hoped that the huge expanses of rock above the treeline would look a lot prettier than the do in summer, given the recent snow. The downside of doing it this time of year, is missing out on the gorgeous alpine meadows and flowers.

We set off from Edmonton around 5ish, and after a quick pitstop at the super-express-gourmet-fastfood restaurant that is Wendy’s in Edson (that is sarcasm. Don’t ever stop there. It took nearly an hour of waiting, and the only entertainment to pass the time was admiring the skill of the staff who had one person to take the orders, and another person whose only observable job was to knock the orders over as they became ready.) we arrived at the campground in Jasper at 10pm for a few beers and a not so early night.

Day 1 - Trailhead to Snowbowl - 12km

We hiked this trail from North to South, to reduce the total elevation gain. After dropping one car off at the Northern traihead on Maligne Lake road, we all headed to Maligne Lake where we would start our hike. After much faffing (I’ve decided that time to get ready increases proportional to number of people squared, although in theory it should take 10 people no longer than one!!) we ready to start hiking at around noon. We started off with 1cm or so of snow on the trail already. The trail winds through spruce and pine forest past some pretty lakes, gaining elevation only gradually, for the first 5km to Evelyn Campground.

After an extended lunch stop (Ian needed to have a full on cooked affair) we were ready to climb the switchbacks to the first pass. This climb wasn’t too bad at all, and we quickly gained elevation and arrived at Little Shovel campground at 8km, where your first views of snowy peaks and valleys open up. It really was looking like skiing season was here! We were now in a good few inches of snow, and as we pressed on up the gradual incline to the pass it quickly deepened to a good foot of snow. The luring ascent to Sunset Peak on the right of the pass caught my eye, and I suggested a quick sidetrip. With three of us capable of leading the group, we decided to split the group into two as not everyone was feeling up to the rather strenuous elevation gain to the top of Sunset Peak. A quick game of rock-paper-scissors determined I was the poor soul who would lead half the group to the campsite, while the others would take the sidetrip. A well worthwhile one from the sound of it, you can ascend the first ridge to the summit from well before the pass, and then drop down a second ridge that brings you out on top of the pass where you can rejoin the trail. The views (from the photos they showed me!) looked fantastic.

Meanwhile, my group bust out the snowshoes as we headed over the pass and down into the snowbowl. A very apt name on this particular day. Gorgeous sun and a stiff breeze provided excellent conditions to enjoy the wintery terrain and stunning vistas in all directions. We reached Snowbowl Campground at 12km, and set up camp. Boxed wine and backcountry cooking provided the entertainment for the rest of the evening.

Day 2 - Snowbowl to Watchtower (skyline aborted) - 12km

One of the group was struggling with the cold and the extra effort the snowshoeing with a big backpack was putting on her, so it was decided the group would again split into two. Ian and Nicole would head out via Watchtower and the rest of us, led by me, would try and finish the Skyline. My group got a (slightly) earlier start at 9.30am (despite the first people being up at 7am…again the person squared law applies to the getting ready time). A rather dark, threatening sky provided an awesome backdrop to sun-lit snowy peaks, and we plodded on towards Big Shovel Pass at 17.5km. The time we were making was pretty bad, and I began to doubt we would have time to make it all the way to Tekarra Campground at 30km. Especially as we still had the Notch, the hardeest part of the trail, still in our way. As we crested the pass in extreme winds, I had my first view of the Notch. It looked impossibly steep, and very, very snow clad. With a large cornice at the top. I didn’t like the look of it at all. Anyway, we had a quick and cold lunch, and then headed on toward Curator Lake through some barren, rocky ground. The wind by now was getting incredibly strong, and the smaller members of the group were having trouble staying vertical! As the wind got stronger, and I had more time to contemplate the Notch, I realised to go on would be foolish. The group wasn’t strong enough to make it over the Notch to the next campground, and the thought of falling short and having to camp out in the exposed ridge beyond the Notch in gale force winds was not very attractive. Not to mention the avalanche risk on the Notch itself..it looked pretty sketchy to me. After a quick discussion we decided to head out via Watchtower too. A steep climb up to Watchtower Pass, and we soon had a view down the picturesque Watchtower Basin. With excess time on our hands now, we decided to frollick in the snow for an hour or so, before heading on to Watchtower Campground, where we joined soon afterwards by Ian and Nicole. The group was reunited.

Very wet snow conditions were worsened when it started to rain, and people retired to bed early. 6 of us squeezed into a Tarn 3 to play several hours of cards.

Day 3 - Watchtower CG to Maligne Lake Road - 10km

When I awoke in the morning, I discovered the rain had turned to 4 inches of snow over night, and everything was frozen solid. A temperature somewhere between -5C and -10C coupled with the rain the night before meant people had to resort to licking tent poles to get them to collapse, and I had to spend nearly 10m de-icing the bear hanger before we could get our food down.

Because we were exiting the trail in the middle of where our two cars were parked, 3 of us went on ahead to get the road first so we could hitchhike and get the cars for when everyone else arrived. The 10km out was a fast, but enjoyable hike along a pretty trail. The fresh snow really added to the gorgeous view of the impressive wall formed by the Colin Range that dominated most of the view ahead. Arriving at the trailhead at around 12.30m, we were suprised to find we had apparently travelled back in time from winter to autumn. It was warm, sunny, dry and there was no snow on the ground for the first time in 3 days. The trees were even still yellow.

It didn’t take me long to get picked up, and we were soon all on our way to Miette hotsprings for the last day of the season.

Good times.

Check out last years Warren Miller flick. This is just a trailer but I have to say it’s one of the best. The movie is definately worth the money, it’s around $40 Canadian. It was shot in HD as well which makes it look amazing. You can buy it at www.warrenmiller.com or just go to your local ski shop.

Length: 21.8km, car shuttle needed
Time: Two days (on snowshoes)
Details: David Thompson Highway - A hiking guide book
Date Done: April 7th-8th 2007
Effort: High (snowshoes)
Elevation: 1400-1900m
Rating: 7/10
Map: 83 C-1 Whiterabbit Creek, 83 C-2 Cline River.

Easter long-weekend is traditionally becoming the first backpacking trip of the year for me. Well, I have been both Easters I’ve been in Canada….I’m not sure you can call it a tradition QUITE yet. Last year took me on Jasper’s Big Bend or Fortress Lake trail. This year, the destination was picked to be Nordegg..specifically the Mount Stelfox Loop trail or some of the Littlehorn Meadows trail, depending on snow levels.

Both the Stelfox trail and the Littlehorn Meadows trail starts from the waste disposal site, 42km West of Nordegg. The Stelfox loop finishes at Coral Creek, 47km West of Nordegg. You can hike back on a trail to make it a full loop if y ou wish (27km in total). Once in the car park we had a group discussion on whether to take snowshoes or not. I helpful hiker just returning from Vision Quest said we would probably not have any snow on the trail. I thought we would encounter some on the passes for sure, and so we decided on bringing 3 pairs of snowshoes between 7 people. Enough to break trail, but few enough to keep the weight down for people. We decided against Littlehorn Meadows, because I was sure it would be impassable with deep snow and avalanche risk.

Well, 1km down the trial we hit fairly deep snow. And it just got deeper. We would have had to turn round pretty quickly if it wasn’t for a packed trail by a snowmobile. Off trail, snow was around 1.5m deep. For future winter hikers, this trail should always be snowmobile packed because it lies on a trapline. Going was hard through the snow, and we made slow progress on a relatively boring trail that sticks mostly in the trail, with a few creek crossings providing a welcome change of scenery. We missed the notoriously hard to find turn off for the Stelfox Loop trail (the tell-tale 2m long log probably well buried in snow!) and ended up camping where the creek from Stelfox Pass joins Whitegoat Creek. In winter this option works very well, as the creek provides nice, easy access up to Stelfox Pass. It is around 6km from the trail head.

In the morning, we made the effort to start really early to escape the warm weather that was forecast to minimize avalanche risk and make maximum use of the early morning snow crust. Four people opted to return to the car the way we came, leaving three people and three pairs of snowshoes to go over Stelfox Pass. The trail up to the pass, and indeed the pass itself, are both quite unremarkable. There are some OK views, but nothing that spectacular. You never really get out in the open, it’s a very low pass. To spice things up we decided to scramble up the ridge on the south side of the pass, the ridge that leads up to Mount Stelfox. It was steep on loose rock and talus, but it was well worth a 1hour side trip for some excellent views.

Continuing on the hike, we struggled with sinking in the snow with our overnight packs, and also battled with the ever changing crust on the snow. Picking our way down from the pass we followed the creek bed (being unable to locate the trail proper). This quickly developed into a technical snowshoeing exercise avoiding ice, rocks, the stream and many logs and bushes. Urgh. Eventually we got out of the steepening stream bed, and followed along the edge of the deepening gorge bushwacking through fairly open forest.

Once we reached Coral Creek, the going never really got easier. More rough terrain, many stream crossings, snowshoes on and off every 10mins, lots of rocks underfoot, some bushwacking all made for a tough hike with big packs on. We never really located the ‘trail’ which is not that consistent or easy-going either. Eventually we gave up rock-hopping across the semi-frozen creek, and opted for the wet feet approach. A wise decision considering the 20 or so crossings we undertook in total!

Nearing the car we picked up the trail, and the going got easier as we battled mud back to the car we left at Coral Creek access area (we did a car shuttle at the start).

Overall it was a fun hike, a hard hike in winter with the multitude of tough terrain, but easily do-able in one short 6km day, and a longer 15km day. The scenery is pretty nice, and you get a good wilderness feeling. I would definitely do this again in winter, probably on skis in one long day.

Length: 5km (one way)
Time: 1.5-2.5 hours round trip.
Details: Jasper Parks Office
Date Done: March 20th 2007
Effort: Low
Rating: 5/10
Map: Not needed.

I was in Jasper this March with some friends of my from England. We did a little tour of the Rockies, doing some snowshoeing, downhill skiing, and I wanted to introduce them to cross-country skiing too. But despite fresh snow in Marmot (again), Jasper townsite was decidedly bare of snow. After enquiring at the Parks Office, I figured the Beaver Lake/Summit Lake trail would be our best bet to get some snow, seeing as it is halfway along the Maligne Lake road right at the end of Medicine Lake, and so is considerably higher than town.

Still the trail was in terrible shape (mostly thanks to the hikers that walk all over the ski tracks). The trail was essentially ice in the shape of human footprints. My friends really appreciated the sport of cross-coutnry skiing as they struggled up the ice on rented skis, falling at regular intervals, and sliding backwards constantly. I was fairing just as badly. I was just beginning to regret it, and was going to turn back, when we came out to Beaver Lake. Hah, we could ski over an inch of fresh snow on the gloriously flat lake. Finally they realised skiing can be fun! I would recommend skiing along the lake even if trail conditions are good, its nice to be surronded by the mountains for a stretch. At the end of the lake we rejoined the trail, and conditions got better as less hikers had made it this far and the trail flattened out. We sped along to Summit Lake at the end of the trail, 5km from the car park.

The trail itself (in good conditions) would make an OK ski, with some nice views when you break out of the trees at the two lakes. The views are nice, but not incredible, and the trail is quite interesting with a lot of ups and downs, but ultimately should be 100% ski-able even for a beginner. You have to cross just one avalanche path nearing the end of the trail. So the risk is minimal overall.

Coming back down was nice, you can double pole most of the way, and it makes for a nice quick return. We were lucky enough to get a sudden snow-storm that blew in to coat the nasty icy sections with 2 inches of fresh snow ready for the return trip. It softened the falls for my English friends on some of the faster downhill sections!

Length: 54.4km
Time: 5-8 Hours
Book: Mountain Biking in the Canadian Rockies - Doug Eastcott
Elevation: 1500m - no net gain/loss.
Date done: June 2006
Effort: Medium
Rating: 9/10
Technicality: Moderate
Map: Not needed.

This ride is out and back on 100% singletrack. It goes right along the shore of Lake Minnewanka, and it’s awesome fast, rolling, techincal (in places), rideable singletrack. Just don’t get too excited and knock a hiker off a cliff. Park at the North side of the Lake Minnewanka dam. Mountain bikes ARE allowed on this trail, so don’t take stick from the hikers.

There is not much to describe about this trail. It just goes on and on by the lake. But that makes it sound repetative and it certainly isn’t. The views are gorgeous of the mountains across the lake, there is lots of lake access if you want to cool off (summer only!), and the riding is never boring. Continually twisting and turning with rocks, roots and short rises and inclines there is nothing to slow you down or tire you out. It’s fast, continuous fun. I don’t know whether I was having a good day, or whether it’s the nature of this trail, but when I did it I didn’t tire at all and felt like I could ride forever at speed. The riding gets more techincal as you approach the warden’s cabin that marks the end of the ride. You then get to enjoy it all in reverse on your way back. It’s one trail I didn’t mind backtracking.

Mountain bike! The Canadian Rockies

Backcountry biking in the Canadian Rockies - Gerhardt Lepp

I spent a few days at Edith Cavell Hostel this winter. Looking for a fun day trip on cross-country skis, I decided to venture along the trail towards Tonquin Valley, the Ramparts and Amethyst Lake. It is around 19km one way into the valley itself, so I knew I wasn’t going to make it all the way. We knew from speaking to the hostel guys that snowmobiles had been out on the trail, in fact the hostelling guy worked at the ACC Wates/Gibson Hut as well as the hostel, and often commuted back and forth (tough job huh?). I would NOT recommend this on cross-country skis if the trail has not been packed! It would be for touring skis only.

As it was, we had some 6 inches to a foot of fresh snow on the snowmobile tracks at first, which made for gorgeous “fluffy” skiing as I like to call it. We descended down a narrow trail through some trees, with good views of surrounding mountain peaks in the gaps. It was interesting skiing, with just enough ups downs and bends to keep you on your toes but not put you in the snow face first. Except once. After around 40mins we broke out next to the Astoria River. Here instead of following the Tonquin Valley hiking trail, the snowmobiles blazed up by the river. So we followed their tracks. It was a barely noticeable uphill gradient all the way, with stunning scenery in the form of snow-capped peaks and impressive cliffs. The valley is nice and wide, and there is no avalanche risk along it. We skied another 2 hours or so up this direction, and judged we had gone around 16km in total by the time we turned round. If you’re a very strong skier and you have a nicely packed trail you could make it into Tonquin Valley and back to Edith Cavell in one very, very long day.

Coming back the gradient is such you can double pole most of the way making for a nice quick return to where you joined the river. Then it is a bit of an uphill slog back to the hostel.

I think part of the reason we were lucky and had packed snowmobile trails to follow was because there was a group on the Waites-Gibson Hut who had food catered for them for the week. So the snowmobiles were probably shuttling food in and out. Check with the hostel people or with the ACC if you want to know in advance if the trail has been packed.

I think this would be a long, hard, flat day on touring skis with skins! I wouldn’t envy it at all, I am definitely going to remember to leave Tonquin Valley via Maccarib Pass instead if I ever get back there on AT gear.