Sun 20 Jan 2008
Paradise Valley Backpack - Hiking in Banff National Park
Posted by Ewen under Video , Backpacking , Hiking and Backpacking[2] Comments
Length: Approx 23km
Time: 2 Days
Elevation Gain: 900m total (excluding sidetrip)
Max Elevation: 2330m, (2500m side trip up Saddleback Mt)
Rating: 7/10, some tedious spots though it was overcast and cloudy
Done: End of October 2007
Book: Classic Hikes in the Canadian Rockies, Graeme Pole
Map: NTS, 82 N/8
Route: From Lake Louise Chateau over Saddleback Pass, into Paradise Valley, up Paradise Valley via river bottom (lower trail), return via Lake Annette and Paradise Valley Junction.
Towards the end of October 2007, UAOC (University of Alberta Outdoors Club) headed to the Lake Louise area of Banff National Park for a late-season two-day backpacking trip. The target: Paradise Valley.
Friday night we left Edmonton with 8 people in two cars, heading for an overnight stay at Saskatchewan Crossing. It was actually their last weekend of the season as they close for the winter period. Stopping in the little an totally unfamous town of Bentley on the way, we managed to get a 12 pack of Canadian for $10, it having been priced incorrectly. The cashier didn’t notice. We were then well equipped for an evening of poker in the hotel, won in style by a poker newbie (that would be me).
Day 1 - Saturday 11km
We finished off the drive along the Icefields Parkway and registered at the Park Office in Lake Louise. Then, after a quick drive to the trailhead at Lake Louise Chateau, we were ready to get going (you can start from Morraine Lake in summer, but the Morraine Lake 
road is closed to cars in autumn, winter and spring). Having assessed snow conditions, we decided to leave the snowshoes at the car…a good choice seeing as we barely had to hike through any snow at all! Yet at the same elevation on the Skyline a few weeks before, we had several feet.
We were heading into Paradise Valley via Saddleback Pass, so we had a 3km of uphill to start off with. In fact, this turned out to be a nice, steady, easy to walk gradient and the time flew by. Before we knew it, we were up above the treeline under the flanks of Mt Fairview gazing out of the Chateau (what an eyesore, I think it should be torn down!!). We stopped for lunch here, and discussed the merits of a sidetrip to the top of Saddleback Mountain which looked a nice easy scramble. Eventually we decided to do it, which I quickly regretted after a few mins of stumbling over slippy, snowy boulders with ankle breaking gaps, down one of which I dropped a Mars Bar. Those who know me won’t be surprised to find out I spent 5mins and a great deal of pain to finally get it back.
The sidetrip redeemed itself higher up though, where the going got easier and some stunning views of the surrounding peaks (including the attractive and instantly recognisable Mt Temple) and Paradise Valley itself opened up. The summit also had views down the Bow Valley, giving you a real sense of the scale of the mountains, without taking too much exertion. It was probably around 20mins to get to the summit from the pass. And worth it.
Heading down again we picked up our packs and started a steep, knee-jarring descent into Paradise Valley. It seemed like we were dropping a lot more than we gained (just an illusion). Leaving the stunning mountain vistas and tremendous rock-faces behind we dropped into the trees, and headed up Paradise Valley. Opting to take the now dis-used lower trail that keeps by the river (it was closed and the trail moved higher up to avoid bear-human conflicts).
This gave us a couple of interesting river fords, but saved us taking the same trail on the return trip. I have to say I was a little disappointed with Paradise Valley, I think it was possibly an unflattering time of year for it being after the amazing larches, and before the winter snow. The trail has some limited views of Mt Temple as it slowly climbs through the trees. It was cloudy by this point too.
The valley redeemed itself somewhat with the pretty area that is Giant Steps. This collection of flat, square rocks forms some interesting waterfalls and is situated in a nice open area with goods views down the valley and up to the surrounding peaks. It is also handily close to the Paradise Valley campground. We chilled out (literally, the temperature was dropping fast) for a long, long time lying on the flat rocks. It would be gorgeous to sunbathe here on a summers 
day (though I can imagine the crowds, we had the place to ourselves).
Dinner included a fantastic bowl of melted chocolate orange to share. Mostly consumed by me.
Day 2 - Sunday 12km
After a rather lonely night in my bivi-bag (I know, it’s a bivi-bag, it’s meant to be lonely, but still, there was no need for everyone else to camp out of sight and out of ear-shot from me!) we set off for a lesiurely day two. This time heading down the current (and kind of new) trail that runs higher up the slopes of Temple, well away from the river and the preferred bear habitat. This route would take us out past Lake Annette. Unfortunately, the weather came in a little bit, and most of the views were obscured by cloud. The hike out was pleasant as far as Lake Annette, and we had some fun times playing on frozen streams on the way (see video). The trail is through scattered trees with some good views of Paradise Valley at times, and some awe-inspiring close-ups of the dramatic gullies of Mt Temple. Lake Annette itself does seem to be in a gorgeous location, though we couldn’t see much. However, the rest of the hike from there onwards to the car at Lake Louise got pretty tedious.
- Parks Canada Trail Info
- Another review of Paradise Valley (boasting it one of the best hikes in the world!!)
- Large collection of photos of Paradise Valley
Highway 1 heading to Calgary. There is a gravel pull off after a few hundred metres, just before a creek (which is actually Heart Creek). The first routes (First Rock) are around a 10min walk following the very obvious trail along the side of the creek. Expect this area to be busy, especially First Rock and Bunny Hill, and especially weekends.
This is a fantastic summer hike, especially if you include the ’scramble’ up to the of Cirque Peak, which sits just under the 3000m mark. It is one of the most easily attainable peaks of this height in the Canadian Rockies, with absolutely spectacular views.
The trail starts off through some fairly open pine forest, giving you some nice views of the Icefields Parkway valley (is this still called Bow Valley this far up?) as you climb steadily. After 45mins or so the trail steepens as you start to climb out of the trees, and you soon break into the Helen Lake valley. This area is beautiful if you catch the alpine flowers in june/july. From here the trail heads easily onwards to Helen Lake. Awesome views of the Dolomite Range and Cirque Peak surround you. Watch for bears…this is prime grizzly country. The trail is sometimes closed if a bear is known to be in the area.
For Cirque Peak, follow the obvious trail anti-clockwise round the lake, and begin to ascend the high ridge over looking the lake. This is still all on a fairly easy trail, so even if you don’t fancy ascending Cirque Peak, it is worth to top out on this ridge for a view Eastwards over Katherine Lake to Dolomite Pass.
But there is no exposure at all to worry about. When you reach the top (the first obvious top)…you can be amazed by the tinyness of the summit you just ascended with ease. It’s extremely precipitous on the backside, but you can keep well away from that if you want. If you want to obtain the true summit, there is a little bit more exposed (but still very easy) scrambling to do as you head right. If you don’t have a head for heights, don’t worry. The view is much the same from the both summits.
Looking out across the Icefields Parkway, you can see Bow Glacier, and the gorgeous looking hanging lake right above Bow Falls which I now HAVE to visit one day. If you like spotting peaks, I’m sure you could name about 20 of the tops you can see from this vantage point.
I have not done this particular descent, sounds nice though!
